By Brigitta Hauser-Schaublin, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Urs Ramseyer
Originally released in 1991, in organization with the Museum der Kulturen, Basel.
This electronic version released 2012
In this fantastically illustrated ebook, 3 specialists research the historical past, construction and makes use of of textiles in Balinese society. Many high quality items are offered, their uncooked fabrics and techniques of weaving and dyeing are defined, and the advanced symbolism and formality services of every are defined intimately.
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Extra info for Balinese Textiles
Example text
Breast-cum-clothbeam (apit); 3) shuttle with weft (peleting); 4) small pieces of cardboard with gold thread; 5) reed (serat); 6) sword stick (betida); 7} heddle rod (jeriring with guungede); 3) lease bar (seleran); 9) bamboo slat for Opening pattern sheds {sorog); 10) thin palm-leaf pattern rods (gilik); 11) pattern heddle rods {gegilik withguun); 12) warp beam (pandalan); 13) warp beam frame (galeng cagcag); 14) crossbeam lor bracing legs; 15) rest for sword stick (rorogari). The latter are wound up on small pieces of cardboard.
This is wrapped in such a way that the lower, outer end hangs down on the left-hand side of the body. The upper end is pulled out of the top edge of the cloth, hugging the body, and tucked back into it. This underskirt is normally only worn on solemn occasions such as processions, weddings and puberty ceremonies. In former times, it was customary at puberty and tooth-filing ceremonies that such underskirts should consist of ritually prescribed cloths such as cepuk or padang derman, and the part of the underskirt that shows when walking is said to have formerly consisted of a strip of silk sewn on to the end of two joined lengths of cotton.
Aristocratic women were barred from the exercise of the pancagina or 3 6 CHAPTER THREE manly arts and crafts, but like women elsewhere in the archipelago were permitted or even required to weave, and thus made their own important contributions to the pomp and circumstance of the court. The production of delicately embroidered and figured cloths with supplementary gold and silver wefts—cloths known as songket—was their exclusive domain until quite recently. And despite the fact that it has long ceased to be an important political center, the small village of Gelgel today remains an important center of songket production.
